Schedule
Depart from Coworking at 1230
1330, arrive at Church
1430, arrive at Galešnik
1500, arrive at Tor
1530, depart Tor
1630, back at Fontana
Note: there is about an hour of steady uphill walking in this hike. We will be moving at a fairly brisk pace. Sturdy, closed-toe shoes and water are essential.
Galešnik, a Late Antique Fortress
Up on a plateau in the hills above Jelsa, at a height of 210 m above sea level, are the remains of a Late Antique fort called Galešnik, also known as the Fortress Town (Tvrđava Grad’). In the Hvar Statute of 1331, written in Latin, it was called ‘Castrum vetus, quod vocatur Galicnich’ (‘An old fort which they call Galicnich’). According to Vicko Pribojević, a Dominican humanist from Hvar, who was writing during the first half of the 16th century, the fort was still preserved in its original form at that time.
For a long time the fort was considered to be Medieval, but more recent research has shown that it dates from the 6th century - Late Antiquity - with no signs found of older layers under the existing ones. A short inscription found near the fort lends weight to the theory that Galešnik and Gradina, a small settlement by the sea on the outskirts of Jelsa, were established at about the same time, probably during the reign of the Roman Emperor Justinian.
The most visible remnant of the fort today is a partly preserved square building with an area of some 40 m2. The site is irregular in shape, and surrounded by walls which extend for 80 m, enclosing an area of 1520 m2. The walls were built to a height of 4 m, thickness 50 – 60 cm, with irregular stones arranged in regular layers and filled in with ample grouting. At intervals along the walls there are recesses for stone supports. In the north-western part of the site are the remains of the foundations of a building, which would presumably have housed soldiers. At a lower level there are remnants of a rectangular water tank lined with hydraulic lime, with parts of a barrel vault still evident.
Tor, a relic of the distant past
Standing at 235 metres above sea-level, the ‘Tor’ watchtower is a partially rebuilt, imposing rectangular structure. Its walls are made of massive blocks in drystone construction, with an entrance in the south wall. The walls measure 6.17 x 7.33 m horizontally, and the tower is approximately 6m high. It commands superb views over towards Stari Grad, the Island of Brač and the mainland.
Tor’s History:
The tower is thought to have been built in the 4th or 3rd century BCE, during the Iron Age. It is Hellenistic (i.e. Greek) in style, but it is not certain whether it was actually built by the Greeks, who established their colony in Pharos (modern-day Stari Grad) in the 4th century BCE), or by the Illyrians who were their predecessors in the area, and whose architecture was known to have been influenced by Greek styles. That is why the Tor is referred to variously as Greek, Illyrian or Graeco-Illyrian.
The tower was built into the ramparts of an earlier prehistoric Illyrian hillfort. The drystone ramparts measure c. 45 m in length, with a width of 16.4 m, height 3.6 m. The site was protected on its east, west and north sides by the steep slopes of the hillside. It is thought that there were dwellings in a terraced area to the north (looking towards the sea) in front of the southern rampart.
The Tor and Galešnik are registered as protected Croatian National Assets, categorized as archaeological sites.
How to get there
You have to go on foot, there is no vehicle access. The walk to Galešnik takes about 60 minutes, if you are reasonably fit. It is an uphill climb, and the path passes through beautiful cultivated and uncultivated countryside. Make sure you have water with you. Wear comfortable shoes and appropriate clothing.
There is a marked pathway leading uphill from the Church of Our Lady of Health. It is quite a long way, so make sure you have water with you, and suitable clothing to protect you from the sun, if the weather is warm. You need to be fit, as the way becomes quite steep as you go up. Towards the top, the path divides, with signs pointing the way left to Galešnik. This leads you into a wide cobbled roadway as you get nearer to Galešnik, which makes for easier walking.
The views once you get there are spectacular, looking across to Brač and the mainland, a rich reward at the end of the hike!
From Jelsa, the path starts from the church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od Zdravlja), which is 40 minutes from Fontana by foot. Originally, one walked up to the main entrance of the church, and the path headed off to the right from there, but that way has been blocked by the building of the new main road. Now, keeping right, you have to walk round towards the back of the church, and the path is marked heading to the right up towards the hills. It is marked at intervals along the way, until you reach the point where the path splits, and a signpost directs you to go left for the Galešnik fortress, or right for the Tor. The direct route to the Tor is steep, and the terrain is relatively difficult. It is much easier if you go via the Galešnik fortress, which adds about another twenty to thirty minutes to the walk, through very pleasant surroundings, with magnificent views.
More Resources:
Text and image credit: Visit Jelsa