Dubrovnik to Hvar: 3 Itineraries, plus a few tips on the Ragusan Republic
The airport nearest island Hvar is Split International. But depending on where you’re flying from, Dubrovnik (Ruđer Bošković Airport) can be significantly cheaper and more direct. Dubrovnik is an incredible destination in its own right, so some families may wish to begin or end their visit to Croatia there, just to soak up another unforgettable experience during their stay. This article will describe 3 itineraries to get from Dubrovnik to Hvar or vice-versa, as well as some tips for getting the most out of a day or two in Dubrovnik, historically known as the Republic of Ragusa.
Dubrovnik under the moonlight.
The fastest route from Dubrovnik to Island Hvar: by Catamaran
The fastest and simplest way to get from Dubrovnik to Hvar is by ferry. This route to is currently served by 3 companies: Jadrolinija, Kapetan Luka and TP Line. In the high season there are four trips per day, including Sunday. The journey takes from 3 to 4 hours depending on the route. Ticket prices range from €48 to €50 per person. These boats are catamarans, meaning that they only admit pedestrians, rather than vehicles. All four routes end in Hvar Town. Families should expect to pay an additional €60 for a taxi from Hvar Town to Jelsa, which takes 30 minutes. We recommend Taxi Plenka, which is our transportation partner for children’s activities. Hvar Town is gorgeous, so plan to take a stroll before jetting to Jelsa. If you disembark there in the evening, consider paying a visit to Teraca, a low-key bar hidden in plain sight on the second story balcony of the Arsenal. Teraca serves solid cocktails and usually simple tapas with a view of the buzzing street scene below.
The scenic route from Dubrovnik to Jelsa: Two Great Driving Routes
You might want to make a weekend out of the journey from Dubrovnik to Hvar. The drive between these two destinations has to rank among the most scenic drives in the world. There are two major choices as one plans an itinerary. First: Pelješac or Bosnia-Herzegovina? Second: Eastern Hvar or Omiš & Split?
Pelješac or Bosnia-Herzegovina?
Bosnia-Herzegovina touches the Adriatic coast between Dalmatia (where Split and Hvar are located) and Dubrovnik in the far south of Croatia. In the past, all travelers from Dubrovnik to the rest of the country had to pass through customs at the two checkpoints on the Croatian-Bosnian border. Especially in the summer, those lines can be quite long and tedious. In April 2023, Croatia opened the Pelješac bridge, which allows drivers to circumvent the border, driving out and up through the Pelješac peninsula before connecting back to the mainland above Bosnia-Herzegovina.
The town of Ston on Pelješac peninsula. Ston has outstanding oysters, craft salt (it’s a thing!), and the world’s longest wall after The Great Wall of China. We are in Dalmatia, so it also has world-class, hand-made wines, olive oil, fresh-caught seafood, and other treats.
Pelješac is gorgeously rural wine country, commanded by a ridge line that slopes steeply down to the sea. If you have been to Napa Valley in California, the landscape is similar. The peninsula also boasts world-class oysters, the longest wall in the world after the Great Wall of China and, of course, excellent olive oil.
The alternative to Pelješac is to cross into Bosnia-Herzegovina. The small stretch of B-H which touches the sea is not much different from Croatian coast which borders it on either side. But once you’ve taken the trouble to pass through customs, you might as well hop up to Mostar, the historical capital of Herzegovina, which is about an hour off the coastal road. While Pelješac is broadly similar to Hvar in atmosphere, Mostar offers a glimpse into a different and important dimension of this region's heritage and culture - one with greater Islamic presence, more visible scars from the War of the Homeland in the 1990s, and bazaars with (some) hand-made folk products.
From Mostar, you can follow an inland route through mountains to the city of Split, then take a ferry to Stari Grad on island Hvar. If you choose to return to the sea instead, you will come to what is called the Makarska Riviera, a dazzling coastal drive stretching under the Dinaric Alps. The Pelješac Bridge also brings drivers to Makarska. From Markarska, you will have the choice to either take the small car ferry from Drvenik to the town of Sučuraj on Hvar, or to continue up the coast to the city of Split.
Sučuraj or Omiš/Split?
A pretty little village called Drvenik operates a small car ferry which takes travelers from the mainland to the town of Sučuraj on island Hvar. From Sučuraj, it is an hour to the Fontana Resort in Jelsa. This drive is truly beautiful and unique, but stressful. The road is mostly single-lane, with frequent unprotected drop-offs. There are periodic pull-outs to allow drivers to make way for oncoming traffic for when two cars pass, but it is not for the faint of heart. If you do choose this route, you will pass by the superb Radojković olive oil house and can easily pop down to Seca, another first-class tasting room. Near Seca, there is a fantastic beach called Pokrivenik. There are other great beaches on this route as well, such as Vela Stiniva, but all require a treacherous, 20-minute drive down to the water. For a meal, we recommend Kod Kućera. The food is superb and entirely hand-made by the family who live on the farm where the restaurant is located. While you wait for your food to arrive, children can play with the goats and donkeys. The view is jaw-dropping. As you pass through this part of Hvar, you will be travelling through time in a certain sense. Eastern Hvar does not have running water, electricity, or postal service. A bus runs here once a week. In many ways, the hundred or so families who live here year-round are in a different era. Do stop at the road-side stalls to purchase their hand-made wines, oils, and other products. It doesn’t get more local or organic than this.
If the Sučuraj route is a little adventurous to your taste, simply follow the coastal highway up to Split. There are countless charming small towns along the way, but we particularly recommend Omiš, the old pirate hideaway of the medieval and early modern Adriatic world. Omiš is where the crystal clear, spring-fed Cetina river meets the sea. Today it boasts ancient fortresses, rafting, climbing, and a gorgeous old town. A few minutes above Omiš is the Poljica Republic, an ancient string of villages said to be the inspration for Thomas Moore’s Utopia.
In Split itself, there is plenty to see and dozens of hip cafes, bars, and boutiques to explore. Truly you can’t go wrong with either route.
The hard way: through Korčula
The longest route from Dubrovnik to Hvar is to drive all the way up the Pelješac peninsula (yes, it gets more beautiful the farther you go), then cross from the gem-like village of Orebić, which has a lovely little used book market and a superb ice cream parlor Croccantino, to the fabulous walled city of Korčula. Korčula Town is the home of Marco Polo and countless other nautical greats. It was a strategic outpost in the glory days of Venice and Renaissance trade networks, and still carries a majestic feeling from that era. It boasts several outstanding restaurants, bakeries, and hotels - all on the boutique scale. To move from Korčula to Hvar, one crosses the mostly forested island to the port of Vela Luka, where the great Croatian singer Oliver Dragojević was born. From Vela Luka, there is a car ferry to Split, and one can then take another car ferry to Hvar. This itinerary would be better spread out over a week, but we mention it as a possibility because Korčula and upper Peljašac are so delightful.
Taking your coffee before the crowds take over.
A few tips for Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is magical. But its magic has not gone unnoticed, and it takes a bit of forward planning these days to make the most of a visit. Here are our essential tips:
Don’t try to park in the city center. Trust.
Take advantage of your jetlag to walk through the city before anyone else wakes up. Buy some flowers and local produce from the green grocer.
Learn more about Croatia than 99% of visitors will ever know by visiting the Red History Museum, which neutrally and humanely revisits the country’s recent past. Likewise, take a moment to understand the resilience that underlies Dubrovnik’s beautiful appearance at the War Photography museum. The Rector’s Palace is also great fun as a journey through Dubrovnik’s more distant past.
If you are religious, take the opportunity to pray in the Dubrovnik Cathedral.
Cavtat and Lokrum are both fabulous day trips. Cavtat has a brilliant house museum and a Michelin restaurant. Lokrum is just a perfect spot to enjoy the beach without crowds after a long flight.
Best semi-casual place to eat is Trattoria Carmen. Best ice cream is Gianni. Fortuitously, they are neighbors.